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YELLOWSTONE UPDATE
By Rocky Barker
Greater Yellowstone is one magnificent address.
It doesn't matter if you live in Wyoming, Montana or Idaho -- this precious place of national and world significance is in our back yard. Much of the 28,000 square miles known as the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem is in federal ownership. All of it is a national treasure.
The region surrounding Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks includes the largest geothermal basin in the world, with 300 geysers and 10,000 other geothermal features. Its elk herds are the largest on earth.
The natural system on which its life depends remains virtually intact. It hosts almost the full complement of wildlife and plants that existed when white men settled in the region little more than 150 years ago. Only a handful of species are missing.
It serves as the headwaters for three of the West's most important river systems -- the Yellowstone, Snake and the Green. The wild character and strict regulation provided in more than 5 million acres of the region protect water quality for nearly a quarter of the continent.
Balancing the needs of the humans who visit or live around the parks with the natural limits of the ecosystem is not easy. And as the number of people increases steadily, it becomes harder.
Moreover, the lifestyles and occupations of the people in the region are closely tied to the land. The cultural values that underlie natural resource industries such as ranching also must be preserved.
Greater Yellowstone won't be protected simply by outside forces. It must be the people in the region who, through good stewardship, keep Greater Yellowstone whole and sustainable.
Yellowstone is the oldest park in the U.S. park system and is its flagship. Each year, it draws 3 million visitors; by some estimates, one-third of the U.S. population will visit this place during their lifetime. They come to experience the park's restless geology; to see grizzlies, gray wolves, and herds of buffalo; to fish legendary trout streams like the Madison and the Yellowstone River. Most of all, they come to reconnect in some way with a sense of primordial America, the larger-than-life landscape that existed before railroads, highways, telephones, and a host of other technologies began to cut everything down to size.
Riding a rare "hot spot" in the earth's surface, Yellowstone's turbulent landscape — which remains among the most geologically active lands on the planet, with steam-spewing geysers, gurgling fumaroles, and frequent earthquakes — was protected as the world's first national park in 1872.
Yellowstone and the huge tracts of national-forest land that ring it comprise one of the world's last intact temperate ecosystems — all its major species of plants and animals are still present. Yet Yellowstone is also deeply scarred by what Edward Abbey called "industrial tourism"; its most famous sights — Old Faithful geyser, the terraced wonders of Mammoth Hot Springs, the overwhelming size and hues of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone — can be a mob scene.
There is, however, a fairly simple way to break on through: Don't try to swallow all of this amazingly diverse place in one gulp. Pick one part of the park, and then walk, or paddle, or ride the extra mile into all the wild country that's still back there. You'll leave behind the crowds and quickly find what you're truly looking for.
Scope Large Wildlife
One of the initial shocks Yellowstone delivers to first-time visitors is the presence of so many large critters — all free, wandering around. You just never know what's coming around the next bend of the Grand Loop. But some places in the park are extra special for wildlife watching, and the Lamar Valley is one of them. First of all, this is the range of the park's recently reintroduced gray wolves. Your chances of being in the right place at the right time improve with the guidance of a park ranger, a Yellowstone Institute instructor, or a private guide, but either way the Lamar Valley's inhabitants include grizzlies, wolves, bison, pronghorns, bighorn sheep, coyotes, and eagles. Bring along a good spotting scope or pair of binoculars and head for one of several turnouts between the Tower-Roosevelt intersection and the Northeast Entrance.
The story goes that a visitor to Yosemite National Park once asked a ranger what he should do if he had just one day to see the sights. "I’d just sit down on that rock over there and cry," the ranger said. The same can certainly be said of Yellowstone. Still, studies of park visitors show that the majority visit Yellowstone as part of a vacation that includes other stops, meaning they need to be efficient in the use of their time. Much of Yellowstone’s beauty and unique nature is away from the major roads inside the park, but the one- or two-day visitor can still see the highlights.
These itineraries are intended to provide a sampling of the best of what Yellowstone has to offer to the short-term visitor.
One-day Tour
This itinerary assumes entering the park at West Yellowstone, though the schedule can be adjusted to be followed regardless of your entry point. Itineraries also assume that you are visiting the park between Memorial Day and Nov. 1, when all roads are open – unless there was a particularly harsh or late winter..
8 a.m.: Before leaving West Yellowstone (or any other park gateway town), be sure to fill up with gas because gas in the park is very expensive.
Depending on the time of year (and, therefore, the amount of traffic), the 14-mile drive from the west entrance to Madison takes about 30 minutes. The route parallels the Madison River and can be where first-time visitors get their first glimpse of a Yellowstone bison or elk. The stony cliffs north of the highway about two-thirds of the way to Madison are home to bighorn sheep that can sometimes be sighted, but they are elusive.
At Madison Junction, take the left fork and head toward Mammoth Hot Springs. Gibbon Falls, about 10 minutes up the road, is worth a short stop. It’s more a cascade than true waterfall, but it’s pretty nonetheless. The route the rest of the way to Mammoth is fairly uneventful, passing through areas where the 1988 wildfires still leave their mark.
As you approach Mammoth near the Golden Gate area, there’s another small waterfall that’s worth a brief stop as you begin your downhill approach to the hot springs.
One way to see Mammoth is to drive into the Upper Terraces loop drive and let off the rest of the gang so they can enjoy an all-downhill stroll to see Mammoth Hot Springs. Otherwise, there’s a fairly short but somewhat strenuous walk from the bottom.
Mammoth is worth a good hour for the one-day tour. Mammoth also is home to a restaurant and snack bar, convenience store and other comforts. Depending on the time of year, Mammoth also is a common gathering place for bison and elk. As always, use caution around wildlife.
10:30 a.m.: Leave Mammoth Hot Springs and drive east toward Tower Junction. Several miles east of Mammoth there’s a pullout for Undine Falls on your left. It’s worth a brief stop to look at the multi-level cascade from above. As you near Tower, this is the area in the park where you’re most likely to see a bear, though they are rarely seen any more. Tower Falls is one of the prettiest of Yellowstone’s dozens of waterfalls. The hike to the bottom is short but a little strenuous coming back up – those in a hurry or not up to the hike back up can see most of the falls from a vantage point only several hundred feet from the parking area. It’s about a 45-minute stop.
11:45 a.m.: Leave Tower and head south through Hayden Valley toward Canyon. This is a pretty drive, though you’ll see some of the effects of the huge 1988 wildfires. The valley is often full of bison. Beware these gentle-looking creatures – they’ll charge and can easily outrun a human.
Arrive at Canyon. You’ll want to spend a couple of hours here. There are several viewpoints of both the Upper and Lower Yellowstone Falls, all of which are worth seeing. One viewpoint that many tourists miss is Artist Point. Don’t pass this one up. It’s breathtaking. Canyon also has all tourist facilities, including restaurants, snack bars, a grocery store, etc. This is a good place for lunch.
2 p.m.: Leave Canyon and head west toward Norris. By taking this route you’ll miss a couple of interesting spots toward Yellowstone Lake, but the one-day visitor needs to see Yellowstone’s geyser basins, which are southwest of Canyon. At Norris, turn south toward Old Faithful. When you get to Madison, continue south. Just after the junction is a turn-off onto a one-way road along the Firehole River. It’s worth the extra few minutes. Stop at the viewpoint for Firehole Falls before reconnecting to the main highway toward Old Faithful.
The next stop is Fountain Paint Pot. This has boardwalk trails through a thermal area that has created beautiful pools and other thermal features. It’s worth a 30-minute stop. From there, drive to the Midway Geyser Basin just down the road, worth another 30-minute stop. Your last stop before Old Faithful is the Sapphire Pool at Biscuit Basin.
4:30 p.m.: Finally, you’re at Old Faithful. Upon arrival, check at the geyser desk inside the Old Faithful Inn or at the visitor’s center to determine when Old Faithful is to erupt next. While you’re there, check on the estimated eruptions for other geysers in the Upper Geyser Basin. Of course, you must see Old Faithful erupt, but there are a dozen or so other major geysers within an easy one-hour walk of Old Faithful. After you’ve watched Old Faithful, take the time to walk the Upper Geyser Basin. If you’re lucky, you’ll see as many as three other geysers erupt during your walk.
Old Faithful is an idea place for dinner, with several restaurants and snack bars. The ambience at the Inn is delightful – it’s a great place to end the day and enjoy a meal. Plan on three hours at Old Faithful to end your day.
7:30 p.m.: If you’re staying the night in Jackson, it’s about a two-hour drive from Old Faithful, if the traffic is light. It’s perhaps an hour back to West Yellowstone or Mammoth and Gardiner. The best idea, however, is to plan on spending the night at Old Faithful before driving on the next morning.
Two-day Itinerary
Follow the one-day itinerary to Canyon, with perhaps a little more leisure at each stop or a stop at the Norris Geyser Basin, which is worth an hour or so for the hurried traveler. At Canyon, add two hours to your stay by taking one of several short hikes. Uncle Tom’s Trail is the best, but it’s a very strenous walk back up after you’ve stood at the base of the Lower Falls. For those who can make the walk, it’s a truly memorable experience.
From Canyon, continue south on the park highway instead of going west as in the one-day itinerary. Sulphur Caldron and Mud Volcano are worth a stop about 30 minutes south of Canyon. If you’re still up for a short hike, the walk to Natural Bridge at Bridge Bay is worth the time. Continue along Yellowstone Lake, stopping at your leisure, until you reach West Thumb. There, turn west toward Old Faithful. Just before arriving at Old Faithful, stop at the Keppler Cascades turnout.
You’ll arrive at Old Faithful toward evening. Take the time to see Old Faithful erupt before you retire, and be sure to enjoy the Inn as the day ends. It’s a unique experience that you’ll cherish long after your trip is over.
The next morning, spend the first half of the day at the Upper Geyser Basin. Start by checking on which geysers are predicted to erupt during the morning, then plan your walk around the basin accordingly. With the entire morning, you should see as many as a half-dozen geysers erupt if you plan well and get lucky. If Grand Geyser is expected to erupt during your stay, it’s worth the patience (it’s not nearly as predictable as Old Faithful, so it requires a wait). Spending an entire day at the Upper Geyser Basin isn’t a bad way to go, either.
From Old Faithful, head to Biscuit Basin, where there are two hikes worth taking. One is a short, easy hike to Mystic Falls. The other is an equally easy but longer hike to Fairy Falls. Either walk is rewarded with a view of a pretty waterfall. Mystic is a full-bodied cascade on the Firehole River, while Fairy is a tall ribbon on Fairy Creek. The two hikes can be combined into a longer loop hike – consult available maps. Continue on Middle and Lower Geyser Basins, where you’ll want to extend your stay from the one-day schedule. From there, you can head toward the exit of your choice before nightfall.
Three-day Itinerary
If you’re fortunate enough to have three days at Yellowstone, your options are many. If you’re a hard-core hiker, exploring the Bechler region and its numerous waterfalls in southwestern Yellowstone is a great option. Check with rangers or the available books and guides on Yellowstone hiking for more information. This is serious hiking for those in good shape and with back-country experience, and requires a good deal of planning ahead of time. It can be done in two days for those in good physical condition as point-to-point hike ending at a Forest Service road just outside the park, which requires a second pick-up vehicle at the hike’s end.
For the less adventerous, we recommend taking a full day in the geyser basin region, plotting your walks in the Upper Geyser Basin to coincide the geyser eruptions. You can use the Old Faithful area as your anchor point, staying two nights either in the lodging or campgrounds in the area. If you want to stay in motel-style lodging available near Old Faithfulor at the Inn itself, make reservations early – the rooms are always full in peak season.
We also recommend extending your stay at Canyon to a half day, and this is another excellent option for spending the night. There are a number a excellent hikes in the Canyon area for people of varying skill level and conditioning.
Finally, there are a number of day hikes that can fill out your itinerary. Here are our favorites (not counting those already mentioned in the one- and two-day itineraries):
- Osprey Falls. A two-mile round trip with a 500-foot elevation loss. Trailhead is on the Bunsen Peak Road in the Mammoth Hot Springs region.
- Lava Creek. This is a seven-mile round trip, but it’s only a half-mile (one way) to Undine Falls, a two-terrace falls on Lava Creek that can also be viewed from a distance from the park highway. The trail is a healthy 760-foot elevation change. Trailhead is about five miles east of Mammoth.
- Wraith Falls. This is more a walk than a hike, totalling just over a half mile round trip to a modest cascade of Lava Creek. Trailhead is not far from the Undine Falls turnout.
- Roosevelt-Tower. This is a short half-mile round trip to Lost Creek Falls. Trailhead is at Roosevelt Lodge near Tower.
- Mount Washburn. This is a breathtaking hike that leads to a lookout tower on Mount Washburn offering views for hundreds of miles in all directions, including Yellowstone Lake and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. If it’s stormy, don’t take this hike, as it is exposed to lightning. Depending on which trailhead you use, the hike is between four and a half and six miles. Trailheads are at the Dunraven Pass and Chittenden picnic area. Again, if you choose to make this hike, get more details from rangers or available books and guides.
- Artist Paint Pot. This is an easy walk of less than a mile with close-up views of multi-colored thermal features. Trailhead is about four miles south of the Norris junction.
- Lone Star Geyser. This geyser erupts about every three hours, so those wanting to be rewarded with a show must be patient. This is a good sack lunch hike. The hike is about four and half miles round trip, and there isn’t much elevation change. The trailhead is near the Kepler Cascade parking area.
There you have it. From a whirlwind visit that hits the highlights to a more leisurely exploration of Yellowstone’s famous and lesser-known attractions, a visit to the park rarely leaves one disappointed.
Enjoy your stay, whatever the duration.
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